Friday 19 June 2009

Day 6: The Miconia Forest and Bike Galapagos

I wake early again. I can´t get over that I´m waking before sunrise. Maybe my body clock is still on UK time?

I eventually get up at 6 am.

At breakfast we discover Matt has already left and we have a new volunteer co-ordinator: Stephi.

Cesare is taking a group up to the Miconia forest (the others go to the waterfall which is an easier hike but less interesting I think). I wear my knee brace and take hiking poles just in case, as I´m not too sure of the terrain.

We take a fair pace out of the station and up. I am coping well and am pleased my knee is holding out. The 67 year old who flew in with us struggles. She is overweight and very unfit (her words, not mine). She has to stop 20 minutes before we reach the top but she has binoculars and can watch birds while she waits for us to come back down the trail.

Cesare is a mine of information and he teaches us about the plants and gives us points when we name them when challenged. I feel like a kid getting something right, like earning a gold star, though I am not the star of this class. That prize goes to Irina or Jesse.

When we reach the top, we have an amazing view of the coast. Cesare shows us his party trick. Using the side of his index finger and by sucking on it in such a way, he makes the sound of a finch. He holds out his machete with his other arm like a scarecrow and many birds in the vicinity flock to his arm. They don´t actually land on him but they were "that" close. It is an amazing thing to watch.

We stay at the top for about 20 minutes and because Ann is waiting we go down the same way. Going downhill is not good for my knee and my pace therefore slowed right down. I also keep tripping up due to tired legs and being muddy underfoot doesn´t help.

Cesare, Negro the dog, Hannah and Chloe (London) bring up the rear with me. Turns out Ann lost patience waiting for us so went back on her own, so we could have gone back the other way after all.

We get out of our sweaty, muddy boots and clothes, repack our bags, eat lunch and are ready for the taxis at 13:30.

By the time our taxi gets into town, all the vacant rooms in the good hostels are gone. However, we find one round the corner that charges $13.50 per person per night and the owner is lovely. We have ensuite bathroom and hot shower. Luxury!

After we drop off our bags we go to the seafront which is yards from our motel and there are our first sealions. They are everywhere! We are all so excited we take so many photos. Sally Lightfoot crabs are everywhere, even a tiny sea iguana. I could watch them all day. Although there aren´t any sealions on the street there could be. Males, females, babies. I don´t want to stop watching them play, fight, swim, sleep suckle but I bet by the end of the weekend, I´ll have become blasé about them. I hope not.

I need to organise a snorkelling trip to Kicker rock and maybe a bike ride this afternoon. The folk at http://www.sharksky.com/ are a fabulous couple: Monola and his wife/partner Tina from Switzerland have an affinity with Jatun Sacha and give special deals to volunteers. Unfortunately, Kicker Rock isn´t happening this weekend as there aren´t enough people but it probably will next week. The bike ride is also full-up. Monola tells me to enjoy Puerto Baquerizo Moreno and get some snorkelling done at the local beaches.

He´s right of course, but I´m still disappointed. However, I need to spend some time getting my blog written up and posted online. I bump into a volunteer who has just left the station and she offers me her place on the bike ride plus one more. I grab a bewildered Jesse and persuade him to join me. It´s a promotional ride around town along with a group of young people to advertise biking in Galapagos. We all get a free t-shirt and drinks bottle too.

Have to say I´m very glad I´ve been "training" for this event back home. If it wasn´t for Chris, Penny, Brian and Liz, I wouldn´t have made it up the first incline (especially after my hike this morning). It wasn´t a race but I feel like I had just cycled one when we finished. I am exhausted!

We meet up with the others who had been sealion watching and arrange to meet all the newbies for a meal at 19:30. I especially want to try ceviche - a local dish made with fish or prawns. I am very disappointed. Firstly, it is expensive - $12 for a small bowl of soup with prawn in a cold gazpacho type soup, tomatoes, onions and my absolute "favourite", fresh coriander! I hate coriander with a passion and can taste even the smallest piece hidden in a salad. I eat as much as I can.

Others have pizzas enough to feed four people, so I help them out. I won´t be eating ceviche again.


After our meal we spend the next hour wandering along the seafront watching the sealions.

Absolute magic.

Irina watches a pup climb up some rocks and clamber along. It is very weak but still with no sight of his mum it just keeps going. We worry it will die but we can do nothing but watch. Nobody is allowed to touch the animals. We can just hope it will be re-united.

We get to our beds at about 23:00 and sleep comes very quickly.

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